Every month I will feature on this page a profile of one of my favorite little known places that I have visited during my travels to 85 countries.
Each of these place profiles will be separated into different categories. Some of the categories include: The World’s Most Surprising Places, My Favorite Places, and The World’s Best Hidden/Off-the-Beaten-Path Places, etc.
The first article on my favorite places is below: The World’s Most Surprisingly Interesting Big City: Mumbai, India.
The World’s Most Surprisingly Interesting City: Mumbai, India
“Bombay, you will be told, is the only city India has, in the sense that the word city is understood in the West. Other Indian metropolises like Calcutta, Madras and Delhi are like oversized villages. It is true that Bombay has many more high-rise buildings than any other Indian city: when you approach it by the sea it looks like a miniature New York. It has other things to justify its city status: it is congested, it has traffic jms at all hours of the day, it is highly polluted and many parts of it stink.”
Khushwant Singh, Truth, Love, and a Little Malice
When Did I Visit Mumbai?
I visited Mumbai for two weeks in 2013. I made a reservation through hotels.com to stay at the Vivanta President Hotel (part of the Taj Hotel chain) in the Colaba neighborhood of Mumbai. When I got to the hotel, the clerk said to me that I must have a lot of business to do in Mumbai. It is unusual that anyone stays there for more than a couple of days. I told him that I was there as a tourist and often stayed in one City for a week or two.
The clerk said to me that he had never heard of a tourist staying so long. Most people don’t think of Mumbai as a tourist destination. I told him that it seemed like there was a lot to see in Mumbai. He told me he had very few rooms available for two weeks. Since I was a tourist, he would give me a suite. I thanked him for the suite, and this set the stage for a delightful stay in Mumbai. (I spent about $100 a night for the room; suites were usually $200 plus a night). The suite was huge and included many pleasant surprises like a free bottle of wine per week.
I have never visited another city where I thought every place I visited was more interesting than expected. I can’t say, however, that Mumbai is the most pleasant, clean, or beautiful City that I visited. Mumbai deserves its reputation for poverty, chaos, and pollution. However, no place has so captured my attention. It is unlike any City I have even seen. I felt like I could spend months in the City and still have lots of exciting places left to discover.
Why Did I Decide to Award Mumbai My Designation as the World’s Most Surprisingly Interesting Big City?
The following list highlights why I feel that Mumbai merits my designation as the World’s Most Surprisingly Interesting Big City:
Mumbai Real Estate
- Mumbai has some of the world’s most expensive real estate in South Mumbai. Many relatively modest apartments in these areas rent for over $2000 a month. Mumbai’s high-cost real estate is because it is on a peninsula with limited space and has stringent urban planning regulations.
- Mumbai also is home to Antilla, one of the world’s most expensive ($2 billion) and largest homes (23 stories). Antilla is occupied by India’s richest man, Mukesh Ambari.
One of my most significant surprises in Mumbai is its incredible collection of landmark architectural buildings built between the 1860s and 1930s. These buildings come in a wide range of styles, including Gothic Revival, Indo-Saracenic, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco.
Probably my favorite architectural style from my travels is Indo-Saracenic architecture. I love the Indo-Saracenic style’s whimsical and playful mix of European and Asian architectural styles. The British built numerous large public buildings and royal palaces in the early 20th century using Indo-Saracenic Architecture. While it is most common in the Indian subcontinent, examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture exist in many countries. The most noticeable aspect of the architecture is its heavy use of exotic Asian colors and design elements. However, the style also used the most modern European technology and employed many European architectural styles, particularly Neo-Classic and Gothic. (Note: The first Indo-Saracenic building I saw -and probably the best example of the style anywhere- was the Royal Palace in Mysore (Southern India).
I learned a lot about the City’s rich architecture history through tours with Bombay Heritage Walks. Some of the highlights of this tour included the following:
Gateway of India
Designed to celebrate the arrival of Queen Mary and King George V from England, the Gateway of India wasn’t finished when they arrived. Supposedly the inspiration for the initial design of the monument was the Taj Mahal. The royal family wanted to visit the Taj Mahal but were disappointed to learn that it was too far from Mumbai, 1500 kilometers. The Gate of India took almost fifteen years to complete. The Gateway of India is one of India’s most iconic buildings and an excellent example of Indo-Saracenic style.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal
The Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal (railway station) was the first of many British Gothic revival style, public buildings in India. The exterior of the building is by far my favorite of any train station that I have seen. I love the playful use of spires, towers, and Indian-inspired decorative touches. Today more than three million people use the station daily. (I went on a tour that used the railroad to get between sites. I have seldom felt so crowded getting off the train).
Taj Mahal Palace Hotel
Opened in 1903, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is Bombay’s foremost destination for luxury travelers. It is also one of the most iconic Indo-Saracenic buildings in the world. The Taj Mahal was the first hotel in India with electricity and running water. I loved walking around the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel and soaking in its elegant interior design. Many stories exist about why the founder, Jamsetji Tata, built the hotel. Everyone’s favorite story is that he built it after being denied access to another luxury hotel because he was Indian. Most historians maintain that Tata built the hotel because he saw the need for a world-class, luxury hotel in Mumbai
Bombay High Court
While I generally like Gothic Revival buildings, The Bombay High Court is one of the few in this style that I love. I went into the building and briefly saw a trial in progress. The whole feeling of the proceedings and the environment still retained, like India, traces of Britain. To my surprise, lawyers even wear the iconic British gown and coat even in 35 degree Celsius temperature (95 degrees Fahrenheit).
I remember also passing by a nondescript building on the Bombay Heritage Walks, which the guide said was one of the first skyscrapers in the world. I tried to find information on this building but could not. If anyone knows about it, I would love to hear more about it.
Sights in Mumbai You Won’t See in Other Cities (At Least Outside of India)
I took a variety of tours through Reality Tours and Travel designed to show tourists some of the more unusual yet off-the-beaten aspects of Indian culture. Among some of the uniquely Indian places I visited included:
The most popular Reality Tours and Travel visits Dharavi, the world’s largest slum (home to over two million people). The tour begins with a visit to a recycling business that was truly Dickensian in its poverty and work conditions. However, as the tour evolves, you begin to realize that slum life is much more complicated than we assume. Even some millionaires live in large houses in Dharavi. There is a thriving commercial district, and the tour visits a typical home that was very small but more comfortable than I would have imagined. (I did feel a sense of how privileged I am when I realized that the bathroom in my suite was almost as big as the home we visited in Dharavi). In addition, you will learn about how Hindu nationalism has forced the Muslims and Hindu communities to separate in the 1990s.
Watching the dabbawallahs gather to coordinate the distribution of home-made lunches throughout the City. The dabbawallahs, a Mumbai institution for over a century, pick up hot lunches throughout the City at around 10 o’clock and deliver them to workers throughout the City at noon. Though many dabbawallahs are illiterate, they deliver over 80 million lunches annually without error. Harvard Business School even uses the dabbawallahs as a case study for a model delivery system.
Dhobi Ghat is known as the world’s largest laundromat and is home to 200 families. It takes over 7,000 people to collect, wash (often by hand), and deliver more than 100,000 garments a day.
Panjrapole Cow Rescue Shelter
Founded nearly 200 years ago to protect stray dogs and pigs, over time, the Panjarapole shelter has primarily evolved into a shelter for stray cows. They otherwise may end up in an abattoir. It is interesting to see how well-kept the cows seem.-
While I did not see these sites on my Reality Tour, I also enjoyed visiting the places reflecting Mumbai’s Jewish and Parsi culture.
Many people are surprised to discover India is home to one of the world’s oldest Jewish communities. First arriving in India around the time of Christ, Bombay’s Jews were significant in the City’s economic life during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Most of the Jews today have immigrated elsewhere for better economic activities. (India has never had a history of Anti-Semitism). I visited several synagogues in India, but the only still functioning synagogue was the Magen Hassidim synagogue in Mumbai. One of the most significant reminders of Jewish culture in Mumbai is Moshe’s Mediterranean restaurant in Colaba. Moshe’s feels more like an old-fashioned Jewish delicatessen than any restaurant I have eaten at in Asia.
Though small in number, Parsis have played a significant role in Mumbai’s economic and political life. The Tatas, one of the most important business families in India and the world, are Parsis from Mumbai. Parsi also were many of the leaders of the Indian independence movement. The Parsi originally came from Iran in the 9th century to escape persecution. Today they are one of the few communities left anywhere that adhere to Zoroastrianism, one of the world’s oldest religions. While in Mumbai, you can see the exterior of several Zoroastrian fire temples.
Excellent Tourist Sights
Mumbai also has many sophisticated and vital tourist attractions, including:
Jehangir Art Gallery
One of my favorite places to visit whenever I am outside of the developed world is a modern art museum. I find that Emerging country artists’ modern art is often more interesting than what you see in the West. In the West, everyone seems devoted to making modern art that is universal in its appeal. In Emerging Countries, many modern art pieces are filled with references to local culture and exuberant colors and extravagant designs.
One of the best modern art museums in an Emerging Country is the Jehangir Art Gallery in Mumbai. Interestingly local Indian collectors must agree with me. In the early 2000’s, Indian art collectors made some of these paintings among the most expensive art anywhere.
Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum
One of my favorite museums anywhere is the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad (BDL) Museum. Originally affiliated with London’s respected Victoria and Albert Museum, the BDL Museum is the oldest museum in India. Like the Victoria and Albert, the BDL museum showcases the best local crafts. The BDL museum also has excellent dioramas charting Mumbai’s natural and cultural history. Restored twenty years ago, the museum’s interior harkens back to the height of the British Empire in India. I went to the museum expecting to spend two hours and ended up spending a delightful full day.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vasty Sangrahalaya Museum, previously known as the Prince of Wales Museum
The Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vasty Sangrahalaya Museum, previously known as the Prince of Wales Museum, is one of the City’s best examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture. The quality of the art collection and curation (including audio guides) is as good as some of the most famous museums in the world. The garden is lush and the museum has excellent sections on the region’s forests as well. Anyone willing to spend several hours at the museum will be rewarded with an excellent overview of the history of India’s rich artistic traditions. (The museum has some art from other Asian countries and Europe as well).
Elephanta Island Caves
While Mumbai is mostly a modern city, Elephanta Island, ten miles from the Gateway of India by boat, has cave temples dating back to the 5th century AD. (Bombay was a small town until 200 years ago when the British decided to use it as the entryway to India). A UNESCO protected site, the trip out to Elephanta Island is a welcome respite from Mumbai’s hubbub. While not as big as some of India’s huge temples, I was entranced by the lovely architecture and setting of the Elephanta caves.
Gandhi’s House (Mani Bhavan)
One of my strongest memories of the movie Gandhi is a scene where a Western journalist (played by Candace Bergen) says that it costs a lot of money to keep Gandhi in poverty. (In reality, a member of the Indian National Congress said the quote in reference to the costs of controlling the crowds that surrounded Gandhi). I thought of this quote frequently when visiting Mani Bhavan, Gandhi’s headquarters in Bombay. The house, which was owned by Revashankar Jhaveri a prominent businessman, played an essential role in Gandhi’s movement. However, it is also a large and elegant mansion located in Mumbai’s most exclusive neighborhood.
Want to Learn Even More About Mumbai?
- Read Mumbai Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found by Suketa Mehta. Mr Mehta’s book is a captivating and insightful portrait of the City through the ideas of an Indian who lived in the US for many years and returned home to his native City.
- When I was in Mumbai, Psy’s song Gangnam Style was the rage throughout the world. Every time I turned on the TV there was a video by Jackky Bhagnani set to the music of Gangnam Style. The video showcases many places in Mumbai with Bollywood dancers. As often happens the song grew on me. I include a video clip of the song. It captures the spirit of a city that I become very fond of, Mumbai.